Wire Color Coding Definitions

• Black - Any black wire will have voltage when the main ignition/toggle switch is set to on
• Red — Carries power from the main fuse to the ignition switch
• Red/Yellow — Connects the solenoid to the starter Ignore this wire in a kick-start only setup.
• Green — These wires should all be They will eventually link up with the negative terminal of the battery, either directly or via the frame.
• Gray — The gray wire carries voltage from the signal relay to the turn signal switch
• Green/Yellow — The green/yellow wire is used to provide power to the brake light and should also connect with both the front and rear brake You can skip the front or rear switch if you plan on using only a single switch.
• Light Green — This wire runs from the horn to the horn button
• Blue/Red — Oil pressure wire
• Light Blue — To be used for the right hand turn signal
• Orange — This wire is for the left hand turn signals
• Black/White — Runs from the ignition coil(s) to the kill switch
• Light Green/Red — Neutral light wire

General Harness Information

Your custom harness will differ from the stock harness in several aspects.

First, a single inline fuse will have replaced your fuse box in order to reduce the total number of wiring runs and to present you u°ith a clean and slim product. Second, 18 gauge wire will have replaced many of the original 16 gauge wiring runs to further slim the harness. High current connections (such as the headlight) can be plugged into the thicker 14 gauge wires that are provided. Because of the change to a thinner wire, care should be taken if you plan to disconnect your controls and components. Please make use of needle nose pliers to grip the metal connectors, rather than pulling on the wires. Damage to the harness may result if improper care is taken.

For those customers retaining the use of their stock ignition switches, you will also notice that the “Parking” position on your ignition switch is no longer used. Your ignition switch now serves as an on/off switch only.

Next, it should be noted that your new wiring harness is only the main harness. Not included is any additional wiring for points, electronic ignitions, the thick ground strap wire, or the thick starter motor / solenoid wires. The charging system is also not present in this harness.

Finally, those customers with bikes that have certain “safety” features such as flasher cancelers, clutch lever sensors (for starter motors), reserve lighting relays, and other extraneous things; they're all gone. Your machine is now leaner and meaner than it was when it left the factory.

Installation Instructions

These installation instructions are broken down into sections and provide a rough order of installation.

Main Trunk

The main body of the harness should first be laid out onto the bike in order to ensure that all wires are capable of reaching all required components. It is most common for the stock wiring harness to be run along the left side of the motorcycle, but layout may be cleaner by opting for the right side so that the rear brake wires do not have to travel as far.

Charging System

A sub-harness for the charging system is an optional extra. If you have purchased only the universal wiring harness, then you will want to reuse the charging circuit from your bike. Depending on your model, this may require unwrapping portions of your stock harness, and then cutting and reconnecting some wires. If you are unsure as to how to proceed, please purchase a sub-harness of the appropriate type. Installation instructions will be included along with the sub-harness.

Ignition Switch

A connector has been included to allow you to modify your existing ignition switch to plug into your new harness. Please refer to a stock diagram of your bike to determine which colors should correspond to the new harness.

Turn Signals

The signal wires are be represented by three different colors. The gray will connect from the flasher relay to the control assembly where it is connected to the turn signal main wire. Coming out of the left hand control assembly will be left and right turn signal wires.

The left and right turn signal wires, at the front of the harness, will have a triple female connector on each. The indicator lights and the front turn signals are both connected here. The left and right rear turn signals can be connected at this time, in the single female connectors at the rear of the harness.

Gauges

Most gauge types will include an internal light that requires power. The power wire in the harness provides power to the gauge backlights as well as power for the neutral and oil pressure lights. The neutral light's negative side should be connected to the neutral light wire within the harness and the oil light's negative side should be connected to the oil pressure wire within the harness. All other gauge lights should have a connection to the ground wires.

Headlight

The power for the headlight is connected to the existing wires from your left-hand control assembly. The ground wire from the headlight should connect to the thick ground wire in the harness.

Left-Hand Control Assembly

After connecting your turn signals in an earlier step, the only remaining wires should be the horn and the hi/low switch. The hi/low switch will have an input wire which should be connected to the power wire in the harness. The two output wires connect to the high and low beam circuits in the headlight. For the horn, the horn wire within the harness carries power from the horn, to the button, and the button should be setup to ground out the connection to complete the circuit.

Right-Hand Control Assembly

The right hand control assembly should contain switches for the brake, starter solenoid, and ignition coils. The brake and the kill switch will each need a connection to the power wire within the harness. The second wire from the brake switch connects to the spare brake wire in the harness and the second wire from the kill switch connects to the kill switch wire within the harness. The final wire is for the starter button.

Tail Light

The tail light and brake light can now be connected. The running light from the tail light can be connected to the power wire in the harness (tail light will be on whenever the ignition switch is on). The brake light should be connected to the brake wire. Finally, the ground wires for the lights should be connected to the ground wire in the harness.

Battery

At this time, the battery can now be connected. Begin by ensuring that the ignition is switched to the off position. Now connect the positive terminal of the battery to the main fuse. Next, connect the thick wires from the battery's positive terminal to the starter solenoid. Finally, the thick ground strap wire for the battery's negative terminal can be connected between the frame and the battery.

Attaching Connectors

Your universal harness comes with some additional terminals to help ensure that your stock parts can be reused whenever possible.

To attach these new terminals, it will be necessary to cut the old connectors from any existing places where they are to be replaced. After the connectors have been cut, use wire strippers to remove approximately 1/8” of insulation from each of the wire. Crimp the metal terminals onto each wire such that one set of tabs wraps around theinsulation and the next set of wraps around the wire. A successful crimp will look like this:

Testing Functionality

The harness is now ready for testing. Begin by ensuring your battery is fully charged and reading at least 12.1VDC with a multimeter (12.5V would be better).

Next, ensure all switches are turned to the off position (turn signal, kill switch, high beam, etc). At this point, you can now switch on the main ignition switch. All of the running lights, head light (low beam), and gauge lights should come on.

You can now test other functionality such as the high beam, turn signals, and brake lights. Finally, the coils themselves, can be tested. Turn the kill switch to the “on” position and kick the bike over (or use the electric start). Assuming the bike is in a state to run, it should start. If the bike is not yet ready to run, simply check for spark by removing the spark plugs and hold each plug to bare metal while trying to start the bike (you may need an extra set of hands if you’re using the kick starter). The plug should spark between the center electrode and side strap.

If, at any time during your testing, your fuse blows, then you have a short circuit. Turn off the ignition switch and unplug all of your connections. Turn the ignition switch on with all the connections unplugged and ensure that a fresh fuse does not blow. Connect a single control at a time, ensuring the fuse is in good condition after each connection.

After all of the connections have been successfully made, test each control, one at a time.